Louisbourg, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

In the 18th century, the French built a large fortress at Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island. The fortress was to protect the important cod fisheries that supplied much of France's need for fish. The fort was attacked by the British twice. The first time the fort was taken by New England colonists in 1745. It was returned to the French as part of the Treaty of Aix Chapelle that ended the War of Austrian Succession. On the second occasion at the outset of the Seven Years war, forces from Nova Scotia moved across bog and marsh to attack from the rear. This must have been an amazing feat of engineering.  The British then destroyed the fortress. Later, Parks Canada worked to rebuild approximately one quarter of the military and civilian portions of the fort. 

We spent nearly a full day at the fort. Our interpreter was amazingly knowledgeable and, importantly, did not speak down to the audience. So great to have a walking tour for those interested in the context of the events that built, shaped and destroyed the fort. 

Cycling at Mabou, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

We have taken many rail to trail bike trails in Canada. A particularly nice day out was on the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail at Mabou on Cape Breton Island. I ride my mountain bike and Keng her trike. I am going faster than her so ride ahead, cycle back and repeat. This trail passes the Mabou stream, bogs and forest. 

Looking to Mabou

Trike in the distance

Lone Shieling, Cape Breton Highlands National Park, NS, September 2015

At  Grand Anse on the Cabot Trail is the Lone Shieling walk. The Grand Anse valley has maples up to 350 years old. This was perhaps the high point of the Cabot Trail. 

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Crofters cottage

Ferns like New Zealand

Highlands of the Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

A particularly nice short walk in the Cape Breton Highlands park is the bog. A board walk takes you past bogs with frogs, pitcher plants and orchids. A must stop on the Cabot Trail.

Pitcher plant in the bog. These are carnivorous plants that capture bugs in the flower.

A short movie of the bog surroundings

looking to the MacKenzie ravine, coming off the highlands

And down to the sea

Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

The Cabot Trail is known as one of the most beautiful drives in the world. It is pretty -- but I think that many places in New Zealand are equally beautiful. However, the Cabot Trail should be on everyone's bucket list. These photographs are taken at the entrance to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park at Cheticamp. It was unfortunate that I could not cycle the trail, as many do. It is quite a challenging ride with many decent hills.

There had been a few Arcadian fishing families living here, who were removed by the Government when the National Park was created.

Alexander Graham Bell Museum, Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

Alexander Graham Bell and his family have very strong connections with Cape Breton Island. They bought several properties at Baddeck on Bras d'Or Lake in the 1880s and built a large summer house. There Bell and his wife conducted many experiments with flight and hydroplanes. The first powered flight in Canada took place on the ice on the lake in 1909 by the Silver Dart. The Bell descendants still own the house and the land although, as might be expected, it has become divided over the years. Parks Canada has built an excellent museum at Baddeck. There is a replica of the Silver Dart and both the remnants of the HD-4 hydrofoil and a replica.  

The Silver Dart replica

HD-4 remnants. It had been left on the beach at Baddeck until the 1950s!

Replica of the HD-4

The original engine of the HD-4 is in place on the replica. A straight 12.

Gaelic College, St Anns, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

The Gaelic College at St Annes on Cape Breton Island is a very important element in the Gaelic life of the island. It has a variety of music and language educational programs, particularly during the summer. And in the Fall/Autumn is the base for the Celtic Colors festival -- which, unfortunately, we missed. 

There is a strong connection between the College and New Zealand. An important minister in the early Gael settlement of Cape Breton Island was the Reverend Norman MacLeod. Many followed him to St Annes, and were known as Normanites. He and his followers moved first to Adelaide and then, amazingly, to Waipu in New Zealand. The College is built on the MacLeod land and there is a stone to his memory on the grounds of the College.

The grounds of the College. The memorial stone to the Reverend MacLeod is on the right.

Memorial to the Reverend McLeod

Moose on the Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Island, NS, September 2015

We had been warned about seeing moose on the road, particularly on Newfoundland roads. We saw a number of juvenile moose in Kimberly, BC but even on the long trip across Ontario and then in Newfoundland -- nothing. Of course, a truck and RV trailer hitting a moose on the road would not be pretty.

Then, in a bog on the highlands of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park on the Cabot Trail, we saw an adult moose in a bog. He was keeping a good eye on us -- and after some time, moved away.

Ceilidh on Cape Breton Island, September 2015

We stayed at Englishtown near to St Annes on Cape Breton Island for nearly a week. There is Gaelic music everywhere on Cape Breton Island and on our first night we went to ceilidh (loosely translated as kitchen party) at the Red Shoe Tavern in Mabou. Three hours of amazing Cape Breton fiddling.