New Orleans, November 2015

We made our way from Memphis to New Orleans, a long drive in the truck. We like to be in to the campground by dark and we just made it. It was Thanksgiving, so not much was on -- but the French Quarter was very busy as always. We were able make several trips in what was a pretty quiet time for us. We had a good look around the Lower Ninth Ward -- in fact our (excellent) RV park was only a mile from the Lower Ninth Ward. We were able to join in to the Nine Times Social Aide & Pleasure Club's annual second line parade in the Upper Ninth Ward (I will post photos).

Particularly enjoyable was to take the trolley from the terminus of the Saint Charles line to Canal Street via the Garden District. It takes nearly 45 minutes to run the complete distance but to see the 19th century homes is a must see.

New Orleans is the most European of cities in the USA .. and all the best for that. These shots were taken at Jackson Square in the French Quarter .. there is, of course, music everywhere in the city. 

Andrew Jackson statue

Basilica

National Ornamental Metal Museum, Memphis, TN, November 2015

Of the many museums and galleries that we have visited on this trip, the National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis must be the most unusual. As the name suggests, the museum is devoted only to works in metal. It is set in several old mansions, looking down on the Mississippi River. They typically have one exhibition as well as items from the permanent collection. 

The featured artist was Linda Threadgill, who makes the most beautiful ornamental items and jewelry. She works in silver and gold, primarily. To be seen to be believed.

The ornamental gates of the museum

A chalice

Menorah

BBQ in Memphis, TN, November 2015

We had wanted to eat ribs in Memphis, the ribs capital of the world. The NYT recommended the Bar-B-Q shop .. and it was excellent. No dinner that night.

Half with a rub only and half with sauce

Dixon Gallery and Gardens, Memphis, November 2015

We visited the Dixon Gallery and Gardens when in Memphis. This is a private gallery, in the house. The gallery has a collection of (at least what it seemed to me) pretty ordinary US impressionist art. What was stunning was the exhibition or massive ceramic sculptures from Jun Kaneko in the garden. Kaneko is a Japanese American sculptor who has his studio in Omaha, Nebraska. 

There was a particular connection for us with this art as there are four of his pieces in the courtyard at the Honolulu Museum of Art, so we immediately recognized  the work.

Memphis, Tennessee, November 2015

From Nashville, on to Memphis, Tennessee. Memphis is famous for the blues and the home of the blues is Beale Street. We visited Beale Street on a quiet Monday .. but the music in each of the several Honky Tonk bars we went to was just too loud. Does music in a bar with 10 people have to be so loud that you could hear it in Nashville? Interesting to visit but not to listen to music, unless you have earplugs -- or are aged under 30.

We ended up at the Withers photography collection, which is right on Beale Street. Ernest Withers was a black news photographer who  photographed current events in Memphis over 60 years. The photographs are both interesting and challenging. Some of the photographs were taken in Beale Street right outside the collection at a time that it was often used for civil rights demonstrations in the 1950s and 1960s.

Beale Street on a quiet evening

Frist Center for the Visual Arts Nashville, Tennessee, November 2015, USA

Frist Center for the Visual Arts is located in Nashville, Tennessee. The center is built in the 1930s Central Post Office. A fantastic beaux arts structure, well converted into modern art museum. There is a nice write up here.

We saw an excellent set of exhibitions including Michelangelo drawings, Islamic art from the Museum of Art in Boston and modern art from Shinique Smith, an artist from NYC I had not previously heard of. She does very interesting work with fabric and paint -- exciting.  

The beaux arts exterior in the main entrance on Broadway.

This is the original lobby, where the public bought stamps. The aluminium frieze work is very interesting.

The upper stairs are an addition in the renovation -- nicely done.

Exterior at dusk

The entrance at dusk

The Station Inn, Nashville, Tennessee, November 2015

Nashville is also the home of bluegrass music. And the principal venue for bluegrass music is the Station Inn. We had an excellent  dinner next door at the 404 Kitchen prior to the show.

The concert was by The Boxcars, one of the great bluegrass bands. A great night out!!

Octopus Terrine at 404 Kitchen

Rabbit stew .. yum

Chicken -- perfectly cooked, at 404 Kitchen

The Boxcars